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North Face of Pikes Peak 
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Pikes Peak


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Submitted By: Hamish Gowans on Oct 21, 2003
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
Elevation: 14,110 feet
Latitude: 38.8406  Longitude: -105.0440 
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Ice Climbing 

Classic moderate mixed climbing and skiing can be had in the Bottomless Pit cirque below the north face of Pikes Peak. Take the toll road ($10 per person) to a flat area at around mile 14 where the road curves close to the eastern drop-off before heading around the west side of the final climb to the summit.Head from the car pretty much straight over (East) to the edge, scramble down and either traverse pretty much level to the South or descend any number of gullies to the bottom of the Bottomless Pit. Looking up at the N face, you will see a rock buttress forming the NE edge of the face. The couloir to the right is the Railroad couloir and to the right of that is the distinctive Y couloir. Further right is a pale buttress of rock with a deep gully on either side -this is the Corinthian column and the gullies ice up in fall to provide moderate mixed climbs. Beware of the necessity to be back at your car by 4pm or you will get a ticket and may be locked in when they close the gates at the bottom of the road. Also note that the road opens at 9am and is subject to partial closure, depending on plowing (call 719.385.PEAK for conditions).

At the moment, there are very similar entries here on the N. Face of Pikes Peak. One was located in the Alpine Rock section, but it was moved here, because it really wasn't rock climbing. These 2 sections will be combined after careful consideration.


Getting There 

From Colorado Springs, go west on US Highway 24 past Manitou Springs and through a narrow canyon. Just as the canyon opens up again, you will see signs for Pikes Peak and turn left at a light, then left again through an arch about a half-mile up. The entrance is another ~3/4 miles along.



Featured Route For Pikes Peak
Crux of second pitch.

Total Abandon   CO : CO Ice & Mixed : North Face of Pikes Peak
Total Abandon is a stellar route in an awesome setting. It is the gully/chimney system that is located on the right side of the Corinthian Column on Pikes Peaks north face. With deluxe access from the Hero Rock Traverse, what more could you ask for? OK. How about 300 to 1000 feet of mixed climbing?From 13,000 feet on the troll road (yuck, I hate paying trolls), park at the last major curve before the road heads up to the summit. Cross the road...[more]


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By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 30, 2008
CONDITION REPORT 

The skiing above Glen Cove is in great shape now (Little Italy).

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 2, 2005

Was in the Bottomless Pit in December '04, fantastic AI3-4 sections of climbing and some snow sections for about 800' (guessing) could be more. Anyway, what a fun alpine adventure. Quick to get to when the road is open all the way to mile 14, head down the Rumdoodle Ridge and then south at the low point into the pit, the climb is to the right of the Corinthian Column. As described, pay attention to time to get back to the car.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 2, 2005

That Corinthian Column is an incredible-looking piece of stone. How big is it? 600-800'? Are there good routes on that puppy? Would they be in the Hubbel (sp?) guide?

Thanx