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12 Oz Curls 

WI2-3 M3 R

   
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FA: Matt Ledges and Tim Judkins Feb 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Mixed, Ice
Consensus: WI3 M3 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 190 feet
Season: Late winter
Views: 159 page views

Submitted By: Tim Judkins on Mar 5, 2007


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Ledges near the top of P2.


Description 

P1: Thin, short step of WI2+ ice, then low angle ice and shrubs for about 75 feet. Belay at a good tree/stance on the right. 100'.

P2: The crux pitch has a 10 foot steep section leading to a snow ramp. From here move left and climb a thick ice ramp up to a large 'sickle. Sling the 'sickle and climb it! There are good feet on the rock to the left. About 90 feet total to a 10" diameter tree. WI3, M3.


Location 

The climb is visible from US Highway 6. It's a few hundred feet up a gully just west of Tunnel #1. Cross the footbridge at the start of the aqueduct. Traverse west above the creek for ~150 feet and then head south/southeast up the wooded slope/gully for a few hundred vertical feet.


Protection 

Ice screws from 10 to 16 cm and a long sling for the icicle. Maybe a blue Alien for P1's start...not much else for P1.



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The start of P1.

The start of P1.

While making the approach 2x harder than it had to be, we got this shot from an adjacent ridge.

BETA PHOTO: While making the approach 2x harder than it had to...


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 6, 2007
rating: WI3+ M3 R

To spy this from the road, go just upstream from the bridge, where there would be a 5th arrow on the curve and look way uphill. If it is in, you should be able to see it. Thanks, Tim & Matt! Oh yeah, that hanging dagger on P2 just to the right was so fragile, beware if you try that if it reforms.