This climb forms a 1st pitch 30 feet, broad 70-90 degree flow with several variations. The right hand side holds thick ice interrupted by a small ledge or two for placing gear. The left hand side sports a thin section of nearly vertical ice. Some mixed climbing can be had on the cliff to the extreme left hand side of the flow.
There is a second pitch above which often forms a fun WI2+, 60', pitch. It had a bush rappel which was improved to a 2 bolt rap.
Descent: Scramble down rocks to the right of the climb. P2 has 2 or 3 sets of anchor bolts.
Protection
Screws. A few stubbies may be useful for some lines.
Toprope Protection
The 3-bolt/chain anchor in the boulder has been removed. This anchor was in terrible condition and needed to be replaced. This assessment was based on many climbers who I have talked to and also my personal knowledge of anchor systems. A new 2 bolt camouflaged chain anchor has been added as of 7-19-04. The location of the new anchor is to the right and is attached to a 8' high rock buttress. Another bolt was added next to an existing bolt and chains were installed as well. This new anchor is above the left side of Mickey's 1st pitch.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Nov 7, 2002
There is a second pitch above which forms when there is actually water draining in this gully. It is pictured in the 1st picture. Interesting descent off a slung bush or V-thread (now replaced with 2, 2 bolt anchors). Ice gets thin at the top. Perhaps 60 feet.
Had a surprisingly good afternoon here today. It's about as good as this climb ever gets. While it rings in at about 2+, there's a great mixed route to the left with several variations, just a veneer of ice for 25-30 ft, that ranks at a M5. Recommended before it gets too warm. As of today, this is the only bit of climbable ice in the canyon.
Just got back from doing the second pitch. It was a little leaner than in the photo but all the fresh snow kept it exciting. The first pitch is growing but it looked too fragile for me. This was my first lead so I have no clue what the grade is, I just know that it was fun.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Feb 24, 2003
For clarification purposes: Mickey's is not a "stepped flow" as AC describes it. It is 2 short pitches separated by perhaps a 100m of walking in a gully with an easy boulder move in between the pitches. Further, above P2, honestly, there has not been enough ice to "leave a screw" leave a screw. I believe AC is mistakenly referring to Coors Lite. Finally, after walking perhaps another 1/2 mile above P2 in search of more ice, there is not much up there. Walking down after P2 is not reasonable option.
I finally got up there tonight to see what was going on and noticed that the farmed ice was gone... anyone know why? I suspect the pipe helped the rest of the flow to form so large in the past few years.
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