Ben Mottinger leading under fat and hacked conditi...
Description
This climb is to the left of the slab and can be recognized by the short, nearly vertical section directly from the base of the climb. This initial steep section is the crux and the attraction of the route. Above the bulge, the route is on low angle ice to the aqueduct, although a short, vertical curtain (three move wonder) provides an amusing finish to the route. Under certain conditions, a thin glaze of ice develops on the steep rock directly above the vertical section, which allows for some fun mixed/thin moves. The climb is a little more than 100 feet long depending upon where you set your toprope/belay station. If you plan to toprope, you may need two ropes, or downclimb for a closer setup. The picture below is shown in the fall of 2000. Decent: Climb up to the aqueduct and walk along the top of the covered aqueduct (a dirt trail) until you spot a trail heading downhill through the trees. Toprope access can be gained by following this trail < 50 yards to the right of the route and downclimbing or repelling from the top. Alternately, scramble up rocks to the left of the route to reach the pins in the rock directly above the route.
Protection
Screws
Toprope Protection
Top rope from trees at the top of the route, bring slings 10-20 ft long and two ropes. A single-rope toprope setup can be made to climb the first steep section only by scrambling up rocks to the left of the route and anchoring to pins in the rocks above the route. Be sure to use a backup!
Middle flow has built up nicely with the sunny days and cold nights. It is in to the top, although a little wet in the middle section. Left side of opening curtain is pretty fragile but leadable with care. Good tape at both rap stations. New flow at far left edge of lower area has also built up and is interesting and steep although very short. No drafting on this curtain, mostly fresh ice from overnight build-up. Makes for a great solo/bouldering area. Check pictures of middle flow in ice database.
Conditions in Boulder Canyon are excellent. Recent cold weather and snow have repaired the middle flow and it is in great shape. Opening curtain is in fat with lots of solid sticks below 3-4" of new snow. A guide teaching one client had main flow tied up for 4 hours while the rest of us scrambled around for whatever we could. What happened to sharing and working people in? First time all year I felt a little pissed off at anyone hogging the ice...My feeling is that guides should not be able to monopolize an area for most of the day for the benefit of one paying client. Just my thoughts - enjoy the ice!
Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
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