The Village Idiot is a great long route with outstanding rock and a diversity of moves. The route features two distinct and different cruxes. Begin the route behind the tree, starting in some dirtier, broken rock to gain access to the sweet plaque of granite above where a couple of excellent splitters cut the face. At the top of this face, traverse right to the first crux, a section of face climbing protected by four bolts. This first crux features powerful moves and steep climbing and takes you to the base of the prominent, left-facing dihedral. Once in the dihedral, plug some gear and clip a fixed pin before coming to the second crux. This crux features awkward, technical movement to ascend the dihedral before traversing right, out of the dihedral, around the arete and on to the face above. A couple of bolts in the dihedral protect the crux, while a couple of bolts on the face finish it off. Enjoy, I think it's one of the best routes at the Narrows.
Location
This is the second route on your left when you enter the Notch. It starts behind the tall tree in the Notch just left of the start of The Cement Garden.
Protection
Eight bolts, one fixed pin, and a selection of cams from tiny to gold Camalot. A 70-meter rope is required to descend, and it's a rope stretcher so tie a knot in the end of your rope!
Doesn't quite justify the rave it receives in the 2008 Rifle guide, primarily due to a loose jug near the start of the lower crux. The upper half is pretty good and will improve with traffic and buffing.
I recommend puting a full length runner on the bolt to the right of the arete in order to keep the rope from running over the fairly sharp edge.
While it may be loose, an endless amount of prying, wiggling, hammering and cajoling couldn't get that jug to go anywhere. Hopefully one loose hold on a 115 foot climb doesn't wreck the whole thing.
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