Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack 

FA:  Matt Samet, Luke Laeser, BJ Sbarra New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 200 page views Submitted By: msamet on Jul 6, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This is a fun route that, at a full 30 meters long, has plenty of varied climbing in its length. As you enter the corridor, walking uphill toward the hump, you'll notice a very clean, glassy wall (The Cement Garden, 5.13) on your left. The 5.10a Crack is just past this glassy panel, and is the long, semi-diagonalling (right to left) crack line splitting the buttress about 15 feet left of a junky corner.

Climb somewhat silty moves off the deck in a faint corner, then step left onto a sloping ledge. From here, the route is obvious: Stay in the crack, taking care with some of the wedged chockstones. A thin-hands crux through a slight bulge gets you to the upper section, nice 5.9+ crack/face climbing on solid rock, protected by nuts and TCUs. Bust a final move to stand up at the base of a clean corner and reach left to a double-bolt anchor with slings. You can use this anchor to toprope The Cement Garden, the 5.13 that climbs the aforementioned Glassy Panel.

A 60-meter rope is mandatory.

Protection 

Standard rack, with an emphasis on thin-hand-sized cams, and a couple of 3-4" pieces.