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Fudge Judge 

5.9+ X

   

FA: Matt Samet, Katie Cavicchio
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: msamet on Oct 8, 2003


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Description 

Awful, truly horrible. Will only fall apart with more traffic.

This is a route used to access the anchors atop Red Faction. It would get you up there to set up a toprope, but then again, it's probably better to just dog up Red Faction or stick-clip-aid it.

From the hump, descend about 10-15 feet in the gully. Step onto the right wall and make a leftward traverse (bad TCU) to a sloping, dirty ledge. Climb the dirty corner (crux) to a stemmy stance, and get in a good cam. Keep rockaneering up and left through stacked loose shit, treading as lightly as possible, to reach the double-bolt anchors atop Red Faction.


Protection 

Some small-mid TCUs, hand-sized cams.