This large chunk of granite is visible from the Chapman Dam. It is a striking south facing four hundred+ foot ramp directly underneath the Hagerman Pass road. It can be found on some USGS topos as "Hell's Gate". It is possible to descend from above, but the lower approach from the gauging station is easiest. Located about five hundred yards from the road, it is necessary to cross a boulder field on the approach. Bolted routes as well as trad lines ascend the sides and middle of the rock. Debris from the old railroad line can be seen in the talus field to the left (west). Power lines descend from cliff faces to the right (east). It is easily possible to log over a thousand feet in one afternoon without touching the same route on this rock. The three to four pitch must-do gem "Straight Through the Gate's of Hell" ascends the center of the slab using a little gear and mostly bolts.
Getting There
Approach from Basalt (CO Hwy 82) on the Frying Pan River Rd. Where the pavement ends, take a right on the lower dead end gauging station road. Park on the road in front of the obvious four hundred foot slab. Walk through the meadow and across the boulder field to the rock (approx. 26 miles from Basalt, 3 miles on gravel). Or, take a left where the pavement ends onto the Hagerman Pass Road, a sign says six miles to Hell's Gate. After driving six miles, look for the power lines and descend the slab from above. Or, come over Hagerman Pass from Leadville by way of Turquoise Lake, look for the power lines and descend the slab from above (unknown mileage).
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Slab from Hell:
A very fun route. I highly recommend it. 5.8-ish?? (I'm not so good at rating slabs.) The rap down was a little interesting. The anchors were just shy of a doubled 60M rope on the 2nd rap. You can hop over to a set of trees and then down-climb to the last set of anchors. You can't hit the ground from them either on a 60M and have to head off to the left. A 70M rope would solve this issue, though you may still have to end off to the left on the last rap.
This route is also in dire need of a couple sets of lockers/chains/rap rings on a couple of the anchors.
On the third pitch, my partner lead it direct, up the crack and small roof rather than following the left side dihedral to a bolt. This pushed the rating in the 5.9 region.
I will be driving through on my way to Boulder and would really like to check this area out. I will be traveling with my 11 year old and want to climb something that is 5.2-5.8, safe, and with a walk off decent. Can anyone recommend climbs like this? Could be short or long but safe. I am experience but my son has only climbed in gyms but belays very well! Thanks! Paul
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