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The Gem 

5.12c

   

FA: Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 285 page views

Submitted By: llamaface on Oct 19, 2008


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Description 

Sharp End guide says "Perfect rock, perfect pockets, perfectly difficult" and I agree. Follow pockets up to a small left-facing corner to some awesome "cranking" over a small bulge. Finish with a really cool sequence at the second larger bulge. Anchors are over second bulge.


Location 

Just left of Stress Rehearsal.


Protection 

6 bolts.



Comments on The Gem Add Comment
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By llamaface
From: Northglenn, CO
Oct 19, 2008

I couldn't believe this route wasn't posted. If anyone knows the FA I'll add....

By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage
May 29, 2009

Great route, aside from the fact that the anchor placement sucks.

By C K Mills
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Jul 19, 2009

Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth, 1989.

My first time on this my belayer tripped and pulled down HARD on the rope while I was in the sharp pockets just about to clip the (third?) bolt.

Great climb. Bad experience.

By Darryl Roth
Oct 27, 2009

Just a bit of history here. I was belaying Dave on the run before he got the FA. Dave was pulling up rope at the bolt before the one at the bulge. He had already pulled a bite into his teeth and then had the full length of that 2nd pull that gets clipped into the draw (lotsa rope out). An inch before the clip, Dave is airborne and I'm doing fast calculus to determine if it's time to back up the ambulance. Out of Dave's mouth isn't a scream, but a moderate toned "Whoooooooa" and then he stops about 6 feet off the deck. Well, I just about soiled myself, and he was cool as a cucumber. Correct me if I'm wrong, Dave.