The rock is standard Shelf Road fare, pretty solid and topping out on the sharp black water drop features.
The climbing is maybe 5.11 up to the second horizontal break, where a good rest can be had. Then pull off a couple difficult moves followed by some thin climbing that's not as hard to the anchors. It is however possible to fall off after the crux if you're not thinking with your feet.
For folks with a large wingspan (maybe 6'4"), there is a tricky to get pinch out right that was vital for me. For shorter folks, you've got some bad, shallow pockets you'll have to pinch? just left of the bolt line.
This is a good place to be when Cactus is crowded with people and dogs. There's also a few routes on the front of the buttress to warm up on.
Protection
A long quickdraw is nice at the crux if you are working the route. This will make the clip a bit easier.
This really is a great route. The rock is not at all "standard", I would say it is much better than most anything else at the Cactus Cliff. The moves are also much more interesting than the standard "dinking" that you find at Shelf. The only drawback is that it is too short.
As for the moves, I'm not sure if I did it right, but I had to use holds pretty far left of the bolt line. It seemed like the only viable option for my 5'7" frame.
Does anyone know if/what broke on this climb. I've done enough 13s to know that this is either the biggest sandbag I've been on or the the more likely option that something serious broke.
Hmmm...I also thought this route seemed brutally hard at first, but after working it, it seemed more in line with the grade. Usually when something breaks, there is an obvious scar...I suggest you try again, and see if it feels more reasonable. I had to do a tweaky two finger move (undercling I think) then dyno to pretty bad slopers, but it was OK once I had it dialed.
The hold at the crux hasn't broken off. Most people don't see it because the rational mind doesn't recognize the "postage stamp" as a hold. When working for the FA,I hung there for some time trying to find a workable hold, and with my negative ape index, it took creativity, or maybe foolishness to think it would go for me. Eventually, with the patience of Dave Dangle allowing me to fiddle for seeming hours, I tried a hold the size of a postage stamp that I had to squeeze between my right thumbnail and middle fingernail. From there, with perfect foot positioning, it's a long reach with the left to a good hold.
Whenever I've gone back, I need to re-suss the move with a hang, because the hold is never chalked and I cannot find it immediately.It blends in and will elude you,but the route is so good, it's worth the effort. Hope this helps. -Darryl Roth
Cash Wall
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