The Gym

BETA PHOTO: just around corner from spiny ridge

Description 

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. Numbering chosen here begins on the left with Natty Dread as # 1. Mark Van Horn's guide, published under the Falcon label, seems reasonably complete. I will leave some gaps in the numbering where it appears that more routes could go in. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There 

Overall, this seems to work out well: drive North of the hairpin. As the road descends to the creek there is parking on the left for a dozen cars. This will provide access to Heaven (North of The Gym) and to The Gym. In earlier years we parked at the hairpin, in the pull out now blocked by boulders. From here one can hike up to Cactus Cliff and traverse around to The Gym. Either way, an obvious trail takes off near the middle of the cliff and is user-friendly enough.

Featured Route For The Gym

Solar Flex 5.11c  CO : Shelf Road : The Gym

This route is located on the black bowling ball buttress just up canyon from the Example prow. The buttress contains two routes, "Arnold, Arnold!", and to its right, "Solar Flex".You may want to stick clip the first bolt, then scramble up a chossy flake to begin the route. The hardness gets going right away, with steeper than normal (for Shelf) climbing up excellent stone. Move quickly to a good rest at a flake just right of the 3rd bolt. Pas...[more]