Behind and just left of QOB Pinnacle, Lumina appears to start in a grungy crack-like thing (at least I always have!). Move out right to the face after 10 - 15 ft and the climbing returns to fine pockets with the occasional horrizontal seam thrown in. If you need a second warm up, Lumina is recommended. Good rock, clean pockets, continuous 5.9 climbing. This line has a bit of run-out in getting to the anchor, but the angle drops back a bit and the final climbing is very much on the feet and substantially easier than the middle 40 ft. Nice climbing, nothing very complex.
I second the "typo" thing. I (and most books, fellow climbers, friends,etc. rate Lumina from 5.8-5.10a depending on the conditions and number of beers the night before. I prefer to climb it as a warm-up for "Porkfist" before moving on to the "business" of the day.
Pretty sustained but most of the clipping stances throw you a bone with a ledge or a big pocket. Definitely a 9 though...if this route is .8 then something like, say, Period Piece is a .6.
Thought it was a great route but felt easier than most the .9's that day. If this crack were in the South Platte it would be a .7.
By Jo Holloway From: Boulder, CO May 8, 2006 rating: 5.9
This route is rated as a 5.8 by Knapp et al. in the Sharp End guidebook. It most certainly isn't, but it is a solid 5.9, and worth the climb. The 5.9 rating is merited by some good rests and decent handholds throughout. There are a couple of handcrack moves to keep things fun if you care to.
By lbishop From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 5, 2007 rating: 5.8
I agree w/ L.S., if this route were in the SPlatte it would be graded 5.7. Fun moves on this one with a couple sharp handjams through the crux. Big fun!
Just if anyone wants to know my dad, Ed Schmitt put this up. Last year I put fixed anchor biners so you wouldnt have to clean the anchors, and someone stole them, as usual. If people would just get the point and realize they don't have to steal every bit of gear they touch, the world would be a better place. A quality route with diverse climbing! Original rating was 5.9.
I really wouldn't rate this as a 5.9. It was certainly a fantastic climb, and I gave it 4 stars, because it is long and spicy. I would call it a solid 5.8, but not much more. There are plenty of rests throughout, and every time you need a hold, it is there for you. Also, the bolt placement alone makes it fairly easy compared to most crack climbs.