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5.11b

   

FA: Brian Mullins
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 70 feet
Views: 43 page views

Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007


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Description 

This stout line offers a brief but intense 35 feet of pocket cranking on beautiful rock. Begin up unprotected 5th class ledges to a big ledge and a belay bolt. There is no reason to belay up here, so clip this with a long sling. Difficult cranks between big, sloping crimps lead up the bulge right off the ledge. In the middle, a few, big pockets offer some respite before reaching a horizontal break with some small sharp crimps, and a lot of blank stone above. A super-long crank to a decent, 3-finger pocket is the key to this blank stretch. Bigger hand holds but scarce feet lead to the anchor.


Location 

Next route right of Potato Chipper, on a north-facing, dihedral wall.


Protection 

Smithsonian bolts protect the hard climbing above the ledge. May want some gear for the 5th class 'approach'.