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Family Jewels 

5.12a/b

   

FA: Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn, '89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 353 page views

Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007


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Description 

An old-school classic that is unfortunately marred by the 2002 addition of a new squeezejob to the right. It's hard to feel like you're not cheating when your foot is 2 inches from one of the neighboring route's bolts.

Begin up a slabby prow on stellar rock clipping homemade angle-iron hangers. Some tricky moves at the top of the slab lead to a rest at the horizontal break. Move right onto the face where thin crimping and the occasional pocket lead to a clean, rippled panel. A thin two-finger pocket and a big dyno gain a sickled-shaped ripple that offers some marginal crimps. Move quickly with poor feet to the anchor.


Location 

First route right of My Testosterone... on the S end of the Vault.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA. This anchor could be improved. The right bolt has two SMC hollow aluminum rap rings. A screw link or two would make a world of difference.



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By Jay P
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008

I found the crux move on top pretty tough and a little reachy. Using the highest foot I can use with my left foot and upside down horn with my left hand, I can just barely reach the sloper top with fingertip of my right hand. Overall a pretty good climb with increasing difficulty toward the top. I think you can skip the crux by going to the crack on the far left, but I don't recommend it. Getting back to the line is pretty saucy, I think.