Start on sharp pockets (as all climbs on this wall seem to). Move to a good pocket to the left of the first bolt. From here is the first and most technical crux of the route (no groundfall potential with a good belayer). There are several options, but all involve moving off a shallow two finger (one if you have big hands) pocket to some bomber pockets to the right. I make this in one static slow move (I am 6'2") but smaller folks will want to find an intermediate. The rest of the route is thin with some good rests. A final, thin crux is found immediately below the bulge at the top of the route. You will be fighting the pump at the anchors.
Location
This incredible route is sandwhiched immediately between Helter Skelter and Pedestrian Gene Pool (11b) to the left of the crack separating Cyborg and Village Idiot.
The description given is a little misleading. The first bolt is a bit high, but is gained by easy moves to a jug pocket to clip from. Tall persons are able to bypass two tiny pockets with high feet and a long reach up and left to a good edge. Shorter persons must do two extra V3-ish moves on crappy feet to gain the good edge and higher jugs. The rest of the route is sustained and somewhat reachy. One clip in particular tests the 24 hr underarm deoderant you appied two days before. All in all, this makes a great redpoint for those who max out in the upper .11s.
By Matt Richardson Administrator From: Fort Collins, CO Jun 21, 2007
I am not sure what is misleading about this description - the first bolt (and all other bolts) seem reasonably placed if the route is within your ability. I climbed this route with a girl who is 5' tall and she seemed to have no problem with it, so I am not sure what Andrew means by "reachy". I do believe that the bottom-most crux is probably more difficult the shorter you are.
Free Form Wall
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