This is a weird route, but I liked it. Unusual for Shelf desperates, it actually has holds! Easy climbing gets you to the lip of the roof where a convoluted sequence will get you over the lip...this was the crux for me. Above that, the climbing eases to sustained 12a or so. The rock looks suspect in places, but it's actually pretty good.
Oh yeah, I'm not sure how others feel, but I felt like it would be bad style to go into the crack to the right of the roof, or the corner to the left, after the crux. I know this is contrived and lame, but it's shelf, and if you want hard routes, you kinda have to contrive them. The route felt right for the grade, doing it thusly.
Location
In the "New Gym", about 1/3 of the way from Spiney Ridge to the old Gym. Look for a short route that climbs out the left side of a large roof, ending near a small cliff-side tree.
The Gym
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