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Le Pincher 

5.13a

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio '87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: fall-winter-spring
Views: 209 page views

Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Feb 26, 2007


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A burly looking Hidetaka Suzuki attempting the sec...


Description 

This route climbs the vertical plaque of rock right of Ice Cream Hangover. It doesn't look terribly appealing, what with the variety of bolts, runouts and no chalk, however it actually climbs pretty nice. I don't blame you if you don't want to try this thing ground up, but it's easy enough to rig a toprope from Ice Cream Hangover.

The climbing is pretty easy (11-?), but intimidating with very cool moves up to the obvious roof. The well-protected crux sequence starts here with some powerful to balancey moves getting over the roof and beyond.

Supposedly this was one of the earliest routes at the Bank and is still one of the hardest. It deserves more traffic than it's getting...probably a couple more bolts at the start would fix that. Whaddayathink Bob?


Location 

Just right of Ice Cream Hangover which is just right of the Weather Wall at the Bank


Protection 

4 bolts, maybe some trad gear for the start



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By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
May 5, 2007

Mike...I have no problem with someone adding bolts to the route. I only placed two bolts on the FA. Someone went back and added the first two bolts.

It was the first or second (Back to the Future) route put in at the Bank.

I also rated it 12c on the FA (I was bouldering a lot) went back and repeated it and upped it 13a.