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The New Vernacular 

5.12a

   

FA: Thompson & Lin
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 20, 2006


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Description 

The guidebook raves about this route (the author was the first ascensionist), and while it has some excellent climbing and excellent rock, it is basically a discontinuous squeeze job from which it is possible at several points to step over to Natty Dread or Gastoned Again.

There is a hard move at the first bolt, then easy climbing. There is a much harder than anything else crux passing a looks-like-the-crux bulge around the fifth bolt which can be avoided at 5.11 by making a move left to ND, a move up and then back R to TNV (TNV is 11+ done this way). Some much easier climbing follows to a roof. From the roof to the top is an excellent passage of thin off-vertical face climbing.


Location 

On the Mammoth Wall, just left of the Gastoned Again corner.


Protection 

11 bolts.