This is number 93 in the beta photo. AWESOME!! Boulder up to (or stick clip) the first bolt. Make some thoughtful moves that veer towards the right then, head straight up the bolt line to a blunt left facing flake. Work the flake to a good rest above. Milk it!! From here, turn the roof using faceholds and the arete to find another rest. . . It's not over yet!! Balance your way up the tricky slab and finish off with a good reach a bit above the last bolt. Work your way right beneath the roof to access the anchors above the lip. The "Shelf Road Rock" guidebook has an awesome description of this route. Something to the effect of "a seemingly endless supply of fresh cruxes as this brainteaser keeps you thinking", which I think is right on!!
Location
This route goes up the light-colored face of a small "buttress" to the right of "I Claudius" and "La Cholla".
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. (Correct me if I'm wrong please but I'm positive that there aren't more than this.)
By Brandon Schirm From: colorado springs, co Sep 21, 2007
Wow, what a climb. It is pockets, then a roof, and finishes on body tension moves. What more can you want?
By kjdetlor From: Monument CO/ Collegedale TN Mar 10, 2008
I made the mistake of climbing this on an empty stomach and almost puked while figuring out the moves on this route. Sweet route, everything from slab climbing to knee bars, very enjoyable nonetheless.
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 24, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Great technical pocket pulling down low to a good rest before the upper slab crux sets in. It gets it's name from the upper slab section. If you lean just a little too far back while grabbing your rope to clip the bolts above the roof you'll come off. This climb was fun to watch my friend who's 5'0" try to hug the upper section.
Cactus Cliff
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