I Claudius 

A stick clip might be useful for the first bolt because it is a tricky clip above some jagged boulders.

If you want to go limestone crack climbing at Shelf, this is your route. It offers everything from fingers to hands and definitely merits three stars. I climbed to the first bolt with my left hand in the crack and was able to clip and down climb to the right. It is thin to clip and you don't want to fall. If it doesn't feel right, do as Bryson suggests and stick clip. Save your arms for the moves over the little roof. RT's book suggests 11a and this site 11b.Whichever it is, you will be smiling at the anchors.

I did this years ago... before I considered myself a crack climber, and I thought it was 5.10.

It might tick in at 9+ in the South Platte. I'll give it 5.10 for sport climbers.

Just imagine if you had to place the pro...

rob

FA Bob Robertson and Ed Q with trad pro.

Good climb. Not really a 5.11 though. It would be nice if someone could put a wrench to the left anchor bolt. It's nut was finger-tight after I left.

I felt that the 5.11 rating was justified, but I'm not a great crack climber by any stretch of the imagination. As far as the above "stick clip" comments goes, I lead this last weekend and felt very solid clipping the first bolt. I had a bomber right hand on the flake out right of the bolt. I don't believe this is off route as clipping the bolt from this stance is easiliy within reach. Look for the no hands rest (knee bar) just under the little overhang!!! Great climb!!!

I haven't done this climb, but why are there bolts next to a crack? Any self-respecting (and perhaps tub-thumpin') trad climber would call this lame...

Sweet route!! I had a good right hand for clipping the first bolt as well. If you blow it, the landing will be shitty though.
Did anyone else notice the runout between bolts 3&4 ?? Seemed like a looong way between those. If you're comfy on cracks it won't be an issue but if cracks are not your thing you may want to keep your cool up there. IMO the jams through that section are straight forward and fairly easy so it's not too big a deal.

Regarding the comment about bolted cracks: I would usually agree w/ the sentiment that a bolted crack is pretty lame. However, when was the last time you took a rack to Shelf Road??

I'm glad I got a chance to get on this, bolted or not it's a great line worth doing. I don't know if it's 11. . . I can't onsight 11 cracks for the life of me yet but, I got this one fairly easily.

Bolted crack! It's Shelf and it's FUN. I did find a red OP link cam placement in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 to be nice for the head. (No, I don't take a rack to Shelf but I do carry a couple of link cams pretty much everywhere for their versatility in cases just like this one.)