Jean Aschenbrenner working into the committing cru...
Description
An old Shelf road mini-classic. if this route was 8o feet, it would be the bomb. I belayed my first whipper on this beast over a decade ago, and for some reason every time I get on it I get a little weak in the knees on the upper clips.
The list is located about 50 yards south of Suburbia in a similar little corner. This corner has a nice block to sit on and a pleasant tree to hang your hat on. On the south-facing wall of this corner, the list is on the left (note the old, home-made hangers at the start. On the right is a nice bolted arete called "Hide 'n Seek".
As with many of the old Shelf routes, clipping the first bolt is a bit tenuous, particularly if you don't have long arms. After this is clipped, stroll up easy rock with crazy jugs to a cave for GI Joes. From here, blast through the next steep section on pumpy jugs, and mind your feet. Run laps on this one at the end of the day until you can't drive home.
Harder than the nearby Suburbia which is rated 10b/c on this site. There are chalked up sucker holds out left at the crux which adds to the indecision and increases the pump.
No need to inflate grades: this is a .10a climb. Because it's hard to read, or has sucker holds, doesn't mean that the moves are any more difficult when you find them, in my opinion. I would submit Mother of Invention as a benchmark .10c for Shelf. This is more of a cruise compared to those.
The first pitch of the Freeblast, that's a .10c, too. Hmm.
By D's Nutz From: Frisco, CO Sep 2, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Fun and pumpy climb on good solid rock. I would recommend this climb if in the area
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