Starting the crux. This is how Cactus looked the ...
Description
This route share the first two bolts and moves as Afterburner. Climb up a short crack and then angle to the right up into a steep shallow corner. Follow the line of bolts up through the corner and steep face to the anchor. Great climbing on good holds and rock.
I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a.
Let's at least stick to the guide book ratings here. Definitely .11a. if this route was at old Shelf (Contest, Freeform, Gallery, etc.) it probably would be .10d.
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 23, 2008 rating: 5.11a
Like the book says, "Not a single move of 5.11..." what this climb lacks in technical difficulty it only delivers on the pump factor. If you are under 5'10" you can get a really good knee bar about half way up. Too bad I'm 6'3" cause I had to ride out the pump to the chains. It's a route I'll get on everytime I go back. Easily the best of the grade at Cactus Cliff.
Cactus Cliff
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