The Raven 

Does anyone know anything about the route that goes right from the third bolt of The Raven? It doesn't appear to be in the Cactus Cliff book.

I agree with the three star rating above - an excellent climb with a wide variety of moves. More unrefined folks will find some nice hand and fist jams in the initial flare before the traverse - but then you apparently miss out on one of the no-hands rests mentioned above. More sustained, and more difficult overall, than other 5.9+ climbs in the area. The Acme Hair-Split-O-Matic (TM) on my desk just spit out 5.10a, so I'll have to go with that.

The route that takes off right of Raven is called Total Recall 5.10c. The bolts may not be were you want them, but they are were the rock is best.

Thanks for the info, Bob. Total Recall looks to have some fun arete climbing with great position. I'll have to give it a go the next time I'm down there.

I must have missed the lower traverse left to the fourth bolt, as I went straight to the fifth bolt for my fourth clip. This probably made the route a little sporty, but it seemed to flow OK for me. I'll second Darin's Acme rating.

The route between the Raven and Crimson Candy seems to be now getting traffic. It is a killer route which has anchors placed (oddly) high above the shelf and to the left of Raven's. It appears to be in the 5.8/5.9 ballpark.

Why is the Raven getting a 5.9+? It really is only a 5.7 that is strenuous for the grade. Either way, a super route that needs a long runner before heading left at the 2nd bolt.

I bolted Raven solo. I rated Raven 5.9+ because: Many indoor climbers are addicted to this location, and climbers who have never climbed at location(s) like Turkey Rock could not likely flash a 5.8 trad route. Raven is RUN OUT in sections. If you place a few pieces of gear, Raven is easier than 5.9+.

Very fun route, worth doing.

I counted nine bolts up to the anchors. Is the 4th bolt (right at the traverse; skipping this bolt would certainly reduce the rope drag) on a different route, maybe?

Great route and a must do. There were some tricky moves at the start. The rock is solid and all the holds are there.

No un-clipping silliness is required, as suggested in this description. Put a shoulder length runner on the 3rd and 4th bolts, and enjoy a rope drag free climb.