This route is located on the face directly around the corner to the left of Suburbia. One of the few beginner/intermediate climbs you are going to find at Shelf worth doing. The anchors are located on the right side of the dihedral at the top.
The First Time This Climb Was Climbed, I Did It -While Hallin A Rope Line (To Hall A Drill Up & Retro Suburbia), With No Bolts (One Day Before I Personally Free Fell Off Top Of DoRDi) /Solo.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2003 rating: 5.8
Time Square has seven bolts. The climbing isn't very continuous, and the bolts are placed to the right of the natural line. An OK warm-up for the harder routes in the area.
Great beginner route. This was an awsome introduction to the climbing at Shelf Road. I highly recommend taking new climbers there, especially your girlfriend.
Personally, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginners. The bolts are run out, many of the moves in the run out sections are awkward, if you fall before clipping into the anchors there is a good chance of injury, and if you fall before clipping into the first bolt you are either going to get skewered by a dead tree or break an ankle.
I agree w/ the first comment. Watch out for the hornet nest before the first clip or just skip this climb altogether. 5.8 w/o bees, 5.10 w/ bees.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 13, 2007 rating: 5.8
This a good top-rope route for beginners but due to the crazy bolting, I wouldn't recommend it to the budding 5.8 leader. The first bolt is way up there followed very soon after an apparently later-added bolt which doesn't make too much sense and then more spacious clips after that.
At the top, instead of placing the anchors within reach from the obvious ledge, the route continues up into a short, semi-awkward corner for a couple of moves before reaching the anchors. A fall in this section would result in hitting the good ledge below. The cold shuts at the top are in dire need of replacement (especially the left one) due to too many people lowering or TRing directly through them.
There is nothing to recommend about this climb. Not safe to lead for budding 5.8 leaders, not very interesting climbing, and the anchors have received less though than many Ive ever seen. Still, it does draw the crowds. Go figure.