Devin ascends the lusty flanks of Risky Business f...
Description
Yet another right-facing dihedral -- this one with a straight-in hand crack, bolts on the face to the right, and varying cracks to the left.
Start between Almost French and Almost Gothic. Fire straight up the dihedral, with enjoyable stemming and jamming. Practice the mantra "pull down, not out" on the loose blocks on the left wall. The last bolt is placed on the right face, beneath a flake. Two finish options exist -- straight up the dihedral (using the wide-ish fist crack) or undercling right at the flake and power upwards (good hands, not so good feet). The flake option is more difficult, but less thuggish.
The bolts are spaced fairly wide for a sport cliff, but the solid hand jams inspire confidence.
A 5.9 variation to the route breaks left into a crack around the fourth bolt, and finishes on separate anchors on the left wall of the dihedral.
By Brad Short From: Saudia Aurora, CO Apr 21, 2003
The 5.9 Left Variation to Risky Business has only 5 bolts. After forking left into the crack the options include: clipping the 5th bolt of the direct line with a long sling (a fall would result in an interesting swing), plugging a finger-sized or so cam half way up the left crack (smarter), or just running it out to the high cold shut left of the crack (burly and not so smart).
Not to to dis Brad, but I disagree. You can still make the last clip then go left... it might require a step out on the face, but I remember it being fairly secure for the clip... and I was out of shape and scared at the time. Disclaimer... I have long arms, my girlfriend often curses bolts that I feel are reasonably placed. Fun route for people who like crack... I mean cracks... you know, crack climbing... (pregnant pause) never mind... (sigh)
Cactus Cliff
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