This route is located around the corner right of Oscar de la Cholla. Start in a moderate, right-facing corner with one bolt. Climb to the loose ledge and start the real climbing. The jamming crux is only two moves long, and the rest is 5.10 crack and chimney moves. A fun climb that would make a good trad climb if you were so inclined.
There is no way the crux is just an .11d!!! unless You are at least 6'3" tall. If you wanna go on a .12 something, go ahead, have fun, but if you are lookin' for an .11d try something else.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 26, 2003
I thought it was a tough move (I'm 6'4"), but my partner who is shorter (5'10") thought it was easy for a 5.11d. Go figure...
The key to moving through the overhanging crux is to dial in the correct body and foot position, which will be different depending on your hieght. Layback the pinch hold and make a high right hand jam to reach the jug at the third bolt.
This would be an easy eleven trad lead at many areas around the country. Those bomber finger locks amount to three-finger jugs for a crack climber. Great route.
Awesome route. Not 11d IMO. Whatever it is, the crux is short (right off the ledge). Once you get the hand jam on the left it's over. Use hands in the right order, and stem high. But it IS crack climbing at Shelf
I wouldn't say this route is an 11d. (I'm 6'1".) The crux is right above the legde, so if you fall you probably hit the ground. The rock is also sharp and the fingerlocks tight; my index finger was numb for quite a while after this climb. Watch out for all the loose rock on the ledge; I brought down a stone pulling the rope. Also, a cam would have been nice between the first two bolts. A shirt is recommended; I didn't wear one and scratched up my shoulders and scapula. All that said, I enjoyed the crack and stemming.
Cactus Cliff
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