This was 1 of my 1st lines @ Shelf. Really good m...
Description
To find this route, hike into the Gallery Canyon and up to the Menses' Prow. Head left (west) past the California Ethics pinnacle. Just beyond the pinnacle is a nice, south-facing wall of light tan color. There is a faint, crack system (not the nasty chimney) that splits the wall in two. Climb this shallow crack on edges and pockets, and protected by well place bolts. Crux is up towards the top. You can thug your way through this one or use the twinkle toes technique. Good route.
The second pitch, while rarely done, has a few fun moves on it as well. These two pitches can be easily climbed as one.
Protection
The book says 4 bolts and anchors on P1, but for some reason I want to say that it is 5 bolts and anchors. Second pitch is 4 bolts and anchors.
I think the Knapp book says this is 11c for the entire route. I don't know if it's that hard, but it definitely felt harder than 10d on the second part. I think more like 11a/b. Done as one long lead, it's pretty pumpy.
If you're calling the extension (p2) 10d, then I have my doubts that you've actually climbed it. I'll stick with the Knapp rating of 11c. It's a touch easier than Graceland, the hard-11c to the right, but harder than No Passion for Fassion, the 11b/c on the front side of the Prow.
I tried to link the two pitches and was shut down at the upper crux... So close! I think the upper move felt about like 11a, but was really pumpy after doing the rest of the route. maybe next trip. If you can keep thugging upward a jug appears right before the anchors.
Menses Prow
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