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Menses Prow
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First Blood 

5.8

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 1,429 page views

Submitted By: Rich Kelly on Sep 18, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

First Blood is the first route right of the California Ethics Pinnacle. It follows a crack to a bulge and then over it into a corner which is followed to an overhang at which point the route curves right to the belay anchor.

First Blood is one of the best moderates at Shelf. It had plenty of holds, smooth jams and great protection (if one ignores the easy run out to the 1st bolt). It looks way harder then the rating but it is all there. The only place where there was not bomber holds was moving right to the anchors. The Menses Prow is a great place to take fledging climbers as there are many quality 5.8's and 5.9's here. Be sure to include this one on your list!

Note that this climb was mistakenly (I assume) left out of the most recent Shelf Road guidebook (Shelf Road Rock - A Complete Climbing Reference).


Protection 

8-9 bolts, plus 2 bolt anchor



Add Photo Photos of First Blood
First Blood.  Climb the crack and corner, pass a bulge to a roof, and traverse right to the anchor.

BETA PHOTO: First Blood. Climb the crack and corner, pass a b...

Peter Dillon at the roof, starting the traverse to the anchor.

Peter Dillon at the roof, starting the traverse to...

Kelly on First Blood.  Be sure and look to your right for the spectacular views of the Valley!

Kelly on First Blood. Be sure and look to your ri...


Add Comment Comments on First Blood
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By Mike Anderson
Jan 9, 2006
rating: 5.8

I concur.

As far as I can remember, this is the best 5.8 I've done at Shelf. It's nice and steep, has great rock and big holds...lots o' fun.

By Ryan Bibler
From: Denver
May 2, 2006
rating: 5.8+

One of the best, most aesthetic moderates I've done!

By Nate Oakes
May 17, 2006

I agree with Mike - best 5.8 I've done at Shelf Road. Very similar feel to Cheese Grater for the first 2/3 of the route. It's easier if you don't wait until the last minute to move out to the right face under the anchors. Don't fret the runout to the first bolt, there are bomber hand- and footholds.

By Jeff Fiedler
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.8

On 10/20/07, several of the hangers were spinning. Someone had a wrench and checked the bolts, which seemed to be in good shape.

So, just a heads up to a beginner leader not to get freaked out if you end up slapping at a moving hanger with your draw.

By CalebSimpson
Oct 24, 2007

I have only been climbing a year and a half, but this is likely my favorite climb so far, very aesthetic, exposed, and fun!