This route is located on the beautiful slab of rock south of the Ejection Wall. As of Mar '05, it was marked by a small plaque at the base, and it is listed in the Van Horn guide (though not on the topo).
An excellent route on superb rock, this is one of the few routes at shelf that starts on bomber rock, and thus has no choss on the entire route. The hardest moves are at the very start with a difficult boulder problem. It's best to clip the low first bolt from the ground, or get a spotter. Once you reach the second bolt, it's all gravy, with some spectacular pockets on perfect stone. The upper climbing gets a bit tedious, as it doesn't rise to the level of the lower section, but it is still good climbing.
This route rivals the Gym Arete for the best 12- at the Gym, and is a must do!
Protection
[10] bolts, I think. Clip the first bolt from the ground, before you start.
The move to get established on the route is technical and somewhat dynamic, but it is also true that the rest of the route is not that difficult. I am not sure how I would grade this route but, I will say that this is a great route.
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado May 12, 2008 rating: 5.12a
10 bolts + 2 for the anchors. This climb is rad. Most people climbing solid 5.11 would onsight this if it wasn't for the beginning. Just figure out how to get off the ground and hold on thru the pumpy climbing to the 4th bolt.
This was my FA. Dave Dangle and Richard Aschert were in on it as well. I've always felt a bit uncertain that the grade should be .12a. That singular move just makes me hesitant and perhaps is better at .11d or c. I suppose that consensus is the boss.
RSS Feed
