Start between Travis Is Soul King and Toxxxic Entertainment. As a whole the climb is pretty juggy (for taller people). The first few moves are easy 8ish. Clips are pumpy the last half because of the overhang. Move right after the 4th? bolt and then left. Nice mix of face and layback.
I really enjoyed this route. It felt somewhat trad in nature (except of course for the bolts).
By DavidH From: Parker, Colorado Sep 7, 2008 rating: 5.11c
Just wondering if the correct way to do this route is going right over the bulge? Seems like it's out of the way of the bolt line, however, going right over the bulge off the 2 finger pocket seems to be harder than 11b/c. Just curious if moving right over the bulge is correct or considered off route? Stellar climbing regardless.
David: definitely off route...didn't you see the blue taped holds? Just kidding, sort of. Are you talking about the very last bolt or two? I seem to find myself left of the penultimate bolt, then clipping the final bolt from a position to the left of it, then using some hand holds out right along with the crack/flake to the left of the bolts (body basically right above the last bolt) to finish.
Fantastic climb: huge holds all over, the occasional hand jam, easy start to a 50 foot endurance crux. Love it.
By DavidH From: Parker, Colorado Feb 17, 2009 rating: 5.11c
Joe, when you got to the ledge with 2 bolts left did you just go straight up or move right then left? Could you tape it for me next time? Great thanks, just kidding.
Got your post a few hours too late David! Did the route again today and realized the (I think) now obvious spot you're talking about. In the vicinity of the 7th bolt (not 4th as the description says), the 11c path certainly seems to be a traverse right then back left to stay on big chalked holds. Haven't tried the straight up path, but it sure looks harder and less traveled.
By DavidH From: Parker, Colorado Feb 18, 2009 rating: 5.11c
Thanks Joe, that is right where I was talking about. I tried going straight up several times and it is harder than I can climb. Just felt kind of out of character to traverse to the right at that point.