Up above the nice pockets and moving towards the c...
Description
Starts 30 ft right of Crack of Dawn and the next one to the right of Head Cheese. Up a short slab past 4 bolts to a dark, steeper section with a corner on the left and 3 more bolts to anchors.
The slab is very nice and would be worth 2 stars if it went to the top. Unfortunately I thought the second half was quite contrived. The climbing steers you into the corner and I ended up traversing right to make the second to last clip. From here it is actually 5.10 to the anchors, but the final hold looks like it is much worse than it is so I ended up going left again. Even if the upper face is 5.10, it is way too tempting to climb the corner. Worth doing if you need a warm-up in the area.
Protection
7 bolts to a 2 bold anchor.
Add CommentComments on Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America
I think this route is a little more than just "worth doing if you need a warmup". If this were on the Cactus Cliff, it would be the best rock on the entire wall. The pockets on this slab are really great. I agree the top is contrived, but it's still quite a pleasure to climb such a nice route as a warmup.
This route is actually called "Trout Fishing in America" or in Rick's book, "Trout Fishing." It was opened by the ubiquitous Ken Trout. Of course Trout Fishing in America was a famous counter-culture book by Richard Bratigan back about 1970. And I agree with Mike, this offers fun pocket-pulling in a great setting. The only thing I don't like are the open shuts at the top.
The Gym
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