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Cactus Cliff
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Slicer 

5.10c

   

FA: unknown, mid-80s
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 317 page views

Submitted By: Brian T. Wandzilak on Mar 7, 2004


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Description 

This route is located at the far west end (left side) of Cactus Cliff on the face just left of Crynoid Corner. It is listed as the first route in the Thompson guide, but Spray Lord is a new route just left of Slicer. Once a scary lead, Slicer has been retrobolted and can be led using only bolts.

I would divide this route into two distinct sections with the first being much better than the second. The route starts with a small roof that you kind of have to thug over, probably easier for taller people. Many variations here depending on if you are on TR or lead, height, preference of holds, etc. Gain the face and climb fairly fun rock to a large ledge. Continue up the center of the second face to the anchors. The second section of climbing seemed to be way easier than the first.

It is possible to TR this route after climbing Crynoid Corner.


Protection 

7 bolts to an anchor.



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By Rich Kelly
Sep 21, 2005

Seems this climb has been rebolted and now sports 7-8 bolts making it a safe climb. The crux is pulling up to a stance above the initial overhang. There is another spot at the top of the initial wall that makes one pause. It looked like one could go up either right or left. There is a good hidden hold on the edge if one goes left.

By zack d
Jan 7, 2008

If the name didn't give it away, this is very sharp.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b

Getting to first bolt not as bad as it looks from below.

By Rizz Wizzle
Jun 8, 2009

Watch out for big, unstable rock about halfway up the route, to the climber's right.