Per Rick Thompson: A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors.
By Rick Thompson From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO Mar 23, 2004 rating: 5.9
Hey Peter - Glad you enjoyed this and some of the other new additions at the Gem Wall. There are 15 or more new routes at this wall alone. My updated Shelf guide is off to production at the end of this week, and in should be available in 4-6 weeks so everyone will have access to information for more than a hundred new routes that have gone in at Cactus and other near-by cliffs over the past few years.
For clarification I'll reveal this ones' identity - here's the description as it will appear in the updated guide:
Chip Off the Block 9 ***FA: Rick Thompson, John Musso & Pat Thompson, 2002. A trophy for the grade - pristine stone, cool moves and surprisingly exposed position combine to create one of Shelf's most fun-packed and high quality 9s. Start in a small, left-facing corner at the right edge of the inset panel and boulder the initial puzzle to gain a stance. Continue up, moving right when possible along a series of right-facing flakes to a finely positioned climax just shy of the anchors. Seven clips. 55 feet.
You'll also note that many of the older Gem Wall routes have been re-equipped. So, say goodbye to many of those home-made hangers and sketchy anchor set-ups.
By Ashley Gann From: Colorado Springs, CO May 15, 2009
This climb has been entered twice, once here and once under the Gem Wall. Under the Gem Wall the name is incorrect though, its under "Chip Off the Block." Maybe one should be deleted? I entered it twice and was looking at it and got confused also!
RSS Feed
