AKA "Hot Bitch on a Beach" for the non-PC. An excellent route and undoubtedly a Shelf classic! The guidebook grade above is fairly consistent with other routes graded in the Cactus Cliff Decimal System. However, word has it that it's a good bit easier than the neighboring "Tits Up", also graded 12b. (Note that these two climbs are reversed in the beta photo).
Start right of Tits Up and left of Wadsworth Boulevard, at the right side of the wall. Climb a short arete to a small roof and continue up the slightly overhanging wall to the anchors. The route is characterized by sustained climbing that doesn't let up until the anchors. There really didn't seem to be a distinct crux... more like 5-6 11/11+ cruxes, separated by decent stances where you can get a good shake.
Great line; awesome pockets and continuity. This route is definitely 3 stars, as is its neighbor to the left, "Tits Up". There has always been a great deal of confusion about which route name goes with which line.I think Joe Collins has it right here.
Amongst climbers I know, there is plenty of agreement that Tits Up and Hot Beach are both classic sport routes, and that the left route is about a letter grade harder than the right route.
Catches sun all day - you could hardly pick a better route to do for the chilly part of the season.
This thing is long and super continuous - definitely no defining move just lots and lots of crimping and pockets with just about no move easier than .11a for most of the 90 feet or so.
Cactus Cliff
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