This route is around the corner from the fun route "Block Party". The route is sustained at the 5.10 level and has some fun moves near the top as the face holds disappear. There some fun moves working the arete, until you move back to the right to clip the last bolt and the anchor. Some of the bolts are in poor positions, since the biners would land on small ledges during a fall.
A tall, blond, and proud line. Steep but with ledges. A tricky start (there's a lock in there somewhere, and a good undercling) gets you to the first ledge. Steep and continuous from there: work left on good holds, clipping bolts out right and using the arete when needed. Crux move for me was between the last two bolts - long reach right to a sloped hold, pull off of that to a pinch on the arete. Mind the feet!
Very nice, fun route. Continuous, steep and the 'ledges' don't offer full rests. 10c seemed about right compared to John Cruser. I thought the bolt placements were good too.
This and John Curser are worth the hike alone, especially if you are on the way to Menses to climb 10's.
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Apr 25, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Good route. A bit hard to read, in my opinion.
By Cam Reade From: Fort Collins, Colorado Mar 22, 2008
Sustained 5.10 climb. Keep your thinking cap on and don't get suckered to the right. As your standing on a thin ledge half way up, look for a bomber side pull just left of the arete. If you find it, the rest of the hold will fall into place.
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