Lesser of Two Evils 

FA:  K. McLaughlin Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 201 page views Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 16, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Between 2150 Wall and Back to the Future Wall

Description 

This is an excellent climb that doesn't get a ton of traffic.

To find this route, hike east (right) from the [Back to the Future Wall] about 100 yards to a thin, fairly tall wall that faces the trail. Above and to the left is a ledge system that accesses 2 offwidth looking cracks and a thin face route ([The Devil Made Me Dog It] - 12c). On the tall thin wall that faces the trail there is a bolted line that goes up the left hand side of the face near the arete. This is '[The Lesser of Two Evils]'. This route would be the second route that you would find if you were hiking west from the alcove that has the 3 routes - '[Dancing Shoes', 'Ethics, What Ethics]?', and '[Aerial Solution]'. Route number 556 in [William Prehm's] photo.

[Lesser of Two Evils] is a great route that hugs the left side of an arete through 3 or 4 [separate] cruxes. The cruxes, for me, included reaches on good holds, using some not-so-good holds, a funky little bulge, and some steep pinching to get to the anchors.

This route would be a great way to spend your time while waiting for traffic to free up on the nearby classics.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts and anchors. Bolts are in good locations for clipping.