5.9 crack 

FA:  unknown Type:  Trad Length:  40 feet Views: 196 page views Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 16, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The Bank Surreal Estate and Back to the Future

Description 

this route is located on the ledge that is above and left of the back to the future wall. it is a thin crack just to the right of moaner. william prehm's excellent photo shows the location.

fun little overlooked route, worth doing at the end of the day, or if you have climbed most of the other routes in the area.

follow the crack using mostly face holds on either side and the occasional jam. i didn't notice any single crux, but most of the route is kind of balancy. i thought it was surprisingly more difficult that i thought it would be. some of the stances i chose to place pro from weren't exactly the best. probably best thing to do at the top is rail left to the anchors on moaner. or you can top out and scramble to a tree and figure out 1 of many ways to get back to the base of the route.

Protection 

very light rack of stoppers to small hand sized cams. rail left to anchor on moaner, or top out and scramble to a tree.