Child's Play 

FA:  unknown Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  50 feet Views: 61 page views Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 14, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

To find ths route, look under the description for '[The Omen] (10d)', this route is just to the left of it and shares anchors.

We TR'd this really quick at the end of the day. I noticed that the bolts were placed very well so that you can clip off of good holds. This would be a good first 12 for the aspiring hard person.

Start up through the first 2 or 3 bolts on positive but reachy holds. Fun moves in this section and the bolts are at chest or waist for harder moves. Once you get to the horizontal break, take a good look above you to determine a strategy for getting through this blank section. I found this section to be brutally hard, until I noticed a hold that I hadn't used. This lead to a good sequence that was quite different than I had been trying before. This will get you to good holds. A few more moderate moves will get you to the anchors. Nice shady route for the warmer times of the year.

Protection 

4 or 5 bolts and bolted anchor