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Cactus Rose Cliff
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The Omen 

5.10d

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 50 feet
Views: 58 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 14, 2003


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Description 

This route is not on the [Cactus Rose Wall] proper, but rather about 300 yards to the east (left). From the day parking area, hike down the road that drops into the bank, and just after passing the mini tower on the left, look for a faint trail under a juniper that heads up the hillside to the left. When you get up to the cliff, walk west (right) along the wall for about 100 yards until you find 2 bolted routes on very light tan rock. The left route is '[Child's play]' (12a), the right hand route is '[The Omen]'.

This is probably the hardest 10d at [Shelf] or pretty close. The climbing is very balancy and tweaky, with holds that vary from large and non-positive to small and crimpy. a couple of the holds look like they might come off and there is a bit of bird $h!t that is pretty hard to avoid. not a stellar route, but if you are looking for hard 10's in the shade you won't have to wait in line. Good way to set a TR on [Child's Play] also.


Protection 

4 bolts and anchors