A gem of a route on Cactus. Start just right of Funkdamental and Poquito Mas. Climb easy rock to a ledge below the knifeblade arete. Climb up the left side of the arete until you are forced to cross over to the right side. It is a hairy move over the arete because a bad fall could do a number on you chances of having childern as you have to do the splits to get around the sharp arete. But the move is not really hard. Once on the right side of the arete face climb (crux) up to the anchors. If you stem backwards off of the right arete face, knock the grade down a bit as this bypasses the hardest climbing on the route.
It was OK. I'd recommend the route if your're in the area, looking for a mid-10 and haven't done it, but I wouldn't do it again.
By Mic Fairchild From: Boulder Nov 3, 2003 rating: 5.10a
a little different from the usual shelf lines in that it moves around a corner (!) so you need a long sling.for the gear challenged, try two quicks clipped together.another nice warm up or challenge at its' levelrating (typically) soft
It won't be soft if you don't cheat, as show in the picture and stem of the wall on the right and all that. Go straight up the face on crimps and it will feel like 10c.
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