Locate the small pine tree on a ledge about 55 feet up just right of Blade Runner. The route starts on a slabby face, following 6 bolts to the right side of the ledge with the pine. Care is needed on the ledge, as it is littered with gravel-sized rocks.
Gingerly step left around the tree and air it out to the 7th bolt. Most climbers over 6 feet tall will be able to clip this bolt with a stretch from a stance on the ledge. Shorter climbers will experience the "joy" of making a move a two a ways out from the 6th bolt. Although the crux is a couple of bolts before the ledge, the last 2 bolts will get your attention.
A good route that deserves the 10b/c rating in Rick Thompson's guide.
The 7th bolt stretch shouldn't put anyone off doing this climb. Although I'm 6ft I had to make a move to clip it, but it is quite secure - good feet, reasonable hands. If you can lead up to the ledge, you should have no problem.
I also think that the 7th bolt is well placed. If it were closer to the ledge it would be useless. The anchors, on the other hand, are a different story. It looks like the rock was really well cleaned on the lower portion, but there is a rotten band with some large loose holds between the last bolt and the anchors. Moving the anchors down below this rotten section might not be a bad idea. Their position to the left of the ledge is good though.
I put the draws up on this for some aspiring 5.10 leaders thinking it was a 10a. Not a good choice.To me it felt easier than Politically Incorrect and I thought the crux was near the 3rd bolt (can't remember exactly). Good route overall.
By lbishop From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 5, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
I've warmed up on this route the past two weekends and feel that it is definitely easier than Politically Incorrect but a different style. 10b/c is pretty accurate imo. Great route, good movement.
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 23, 2008 rating: 5.10b/c
Although the guide says it's only (2) stars I felt this was as good as any other 5.10 at Cactus. I would even give it higher praise if it wasn't for some of the loose rocks on top of the first ledge and of course at the top. Although intimidating looking up at the bolt above the Christmas Tree ledge the holds are all there. Cool line just watch out for your belayer and people below near the ledge and upper section.
WATCH OUT!!!!! Noticed a large loose hold on the final stretch to the anchor, its out right, a jug and covered in chalk. If you like your belayer don't use this hold.
Cactus Cliff
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