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Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest 
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Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest 

5.11a/b

   

FA: 4/88 Paul Heyliger & Tim O'Grady
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 414 page views

Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2001


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Description 

Super fun line - classic for its grade. Climbs a shallow slippery dihedral that starts to feel downright difficult in the crux. Keep moving and everything eases up - stall out and you might be in trouble.

This is one route left of "Eat Drink and Beat Larry". Go to the question of balance pinnacle and go left past 4 routes to get to the buttress."Eat Drink.. " is the thin line that goes up about 55 feet on funky hangers. "Box Lunch" ascends the pretty dihedral to the left.


Protection 

8 bolts.



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By david goldstein
Sep 21, 2006

Note: in the 2005 Sharp End Shelf guide, this route is called Lou Raven's Rest and rated 10c/d. RM's description of Box Lunch seems more accurate.

By Paul Heyliger
Jan 11, 2007

I hate to add a third route name to the mix, but I did the first ascent of this climb in April of 1988 with Tim O'Grady, and we called it Crown of Thorns (it was just past Easter and the rock was prickly). We placed the first and last bolts and used gear in the dihedral. The route was later retro-bolted by someone else, which is fine with me. My notes say 10c/d, but we were terrified of overgrading and I suspect the 11a/b grade is closer to the mark.

I'll point out here that Tim and I also did the first ascent of the line to the right of Larry that has appeared in several guides as The Plum, and I think mistakenly graded at 10a. Again, we placed only the first and last bolts and used gear in the middle section. We graded it (I thought conservatively) at 11b, and can only hope that the 10a grade was a guess from the ground. The route is named Drop the Pilate (as in Pontius, not the singular of Pilates).

We also did a very short route on the far left end of the Dark Side (Capone, 3 bolts, 10c) which does not deserve a write-up and is probably best left to obscurity.