An amazing roof! Has the potential to be a complete sandbag at 11a, you are forewarned! Difficult to find. In the north end of the north wall of the Bank. Between Quarry Wall (Dust Lust, A Sharp) and #1 Super Guy there are low cliffs with few lines then a gully. The next cliff band has #1 Super Guy on the far left side climbing the prominent roof, but the approach is from the road up to the right side of this wall (Several routes here: Starving Hippies 11b/c, Incredible Weather 12c/d, and Flesh Tuxedo 11b among others) then hike left along the cliff to find the line. For the roof lover - the only reason the climb isn't 3 stars is the loose start. Climb a easy slightly loose stemming dihedral with a piece of pro or two to a ledge. Climb the balancy fun face to beneath the roof. Clip the bolt behind you on the roof. Sandbagged with bad beta I climbed this the hard way with the most tremendous reach I've ever made. There is an easier way but I'll let you puzzle this one out yourself.
Protection
5 bolts? or so to 2 bolt anchor. A couple medium nuts will protect the start.
What do you mean, Jesse - bad beta for #1 Super Guy! If you want to escape the roof to the left well OK - but what's the point when you have a awesome roof, a good finger lock, and a bolt at your waist when you make the reach to pull this mini-classic roof!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
