This climb is listed as a 10b in the guide book, but 95% of the climb felt like easy 5.9. This is wonderful route that should not be missed. There are some huge holds on this climb. The crux is probably clipping the anchors. They are in an awkward position above a small roof. If the anchors were below the roof the climb, this climb would a three star 5.9. Enjoy....
I agree with the 5.9 part but I would say 9+. A fantastic jug haul warm-up but I had no problems at the anchors and I'm 6" shorter then Guy. A fun, moderate, must do, 3 star route no matter what you grade it!
Immediately to the left there is a bolted line with "Anguish and Fear 5.10a" painted at the base. It's pretty similar. Both seem to have a lot of dust on the holds (slippery?).
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Apr 25, 2007 rating: 5.9+
I've done this route a couple times, and I always forget how fun it is. Definitely worth doing.
By Cam Reade From: Fort Collins, Colorado Mar 22, 2008
Fun 5.9 until the anchor. Clipping the anchor is the 10b part of this climb.