To find this route, hike into the Gallery canyon and head up to Menses' Prow. From here, hike left (west) past the California Ethics Pinnacle approximately 100 yards. There should be a large 15 foot tall ledge below numerous bolted routes. To the right of this ledge is a dark corner with a slab with bolts. This is BOSS method.
A good quick warmup or beginner's lead. You can pretty much make this one as difficult as you want. Most people climb it on the left and use the corner for extra holds. However, the right side and straight up the middle go fairly easily as well.
neat little route! Following the bolt line directly seems quite a bit harder than the rating in my oppinion, but as the route description states, the corner to the left is easier ground. Also, once the TR is established, the chimney to the right provides a safe place to practice your chimney technique.
Hey man I really would like to know who got the FA. I can't figure it out because you have like 5 people of it, but Only one person can get The FA. So if you could tell me who that person is that would be great.
Andy - dude, take a pill. Having a coniption over who got the FA on a 5.8 sport line is kind of like making a big deal over who the valedictorian was in summer school.
Maybe the 5.8 rating is a "split the difference" kind of thing.... Following the bolt line seems more difficult than 5.8, but going up the corner just to the left is significantly easier.
Good for some morning to early afternoon shade. The left line was the easiest clipping line around a 5.8. I thought straight up was much harder, around 5.9+, despite what the book said. The bolts are a bit far to lead from the right chimney-ish line, but is super fun on top rope. From the top of Boss Method you can access the anchors to Dumb Waiter to set up a top rope.
Menses Prow
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