Climbs through the nice looking, steep, black streak right of the Working Man/Pick Pocket area (see photo). Solo up to a ledge to the first bolt or use your 25 foot long stick clip. Seriously, the climbing to the first bolt is not too hard, but something could easily break. A bolt or two should definitely be added to the start. The crux is moving through the first bulge and up the white headwall. Pulling the bulge is a little beta intensive and many, many chalked holds exist here to confuse the situation. Pretty nice power endurance section. Arrive at a very good jug to rest below the black streak. I may have cheated through this black bulge by moving 4 feet left of the bolt line, but I can't see a way to get through otherwise. The black bulge looks awesome but has pretty worthless holds and is the steepest part of the route. For this route to be 13a I think the climber must move left at this point. Please let me know if there is some great beta to stay within the bolt-line. Despite the traversing, the climbing stays fun with a little endurance pump all the way to the chains.
Originally bolted by Kevin McLaughlin is my guess and I have heard that Kurt Smith supposedly did the FA, but I have also heard that I did the FA - who knows. There used to be 2 or 3 bolts in the lower section but these were stripped along time ago and need to be replaced for a safer start. The upper crux can be climbed by moving slightly right of the bolt line but not all the way over to Glue Slippage; this is more in line with the route then going way to the left. As a side note, the upper crux goes straight up on the crappy hold if you throw a big dyno or are very short but the grade goes up a letter or two.
Cactus Cliff
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