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Cactus Cliff
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Black Slabbeth 

5.10a

   

FA: Pat Thompson, Rick Thompson, 2000
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 321 page views

Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Mar 17, 2002


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Kreighton bieger on Black Slabbeth. OL' 47 is the ...


Description 

Black Slabbeth is the last route in the alcove of moderate routes that starts with a bolted 5.5 on the left, and includes Red Eclipse, Amiga, and OL' 47. Step across some junky rocks and cacti to gain the bottom of a black slab that is bolted up the middle and has a crack on each side. Nine bolts in about 60' make this an incredibly safe lead for the aspiring 5.10a leader.

Good luck finding the 10a moves. I climbed mostly in the right crack, and the route felt like 5.8-5.9. Maybe the left crack is harder, but staying out of both cracks, which are about 5' apart, seems incredibly contrived.

Still a fun, safe route for someone looking to break into 5.9/5.10 sport climbing.


Protection 

9 bolts.



Add Photo Photos of Black Slabbeth
Cactus Cliff - Right (1)<br /><br />The Price is Right is now named Legend on the Fall.<br /><br />La Estacion de Shelf is now named La Temperatura de Shelf.

BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1)

The Price is Right is no...


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By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Mar 22, 2002

Black Slabbeth is a route enjoyed by many. Not the highest of quality, but certainly not a choss pile either. In fact, after departing from the initial section, one finds fine-quality slab climbing with a hard patina surface. The route can be climbed in a variety of ways: there's a flake/crack on the left, and a flake/crack on the right with a narrow face between. The flakes diverge as one climbs higher on the route. Eventually the panel widens enough to abandon the flanking features. Continue up clean rock to the anchors. It is on this clean face where the 10a slab moves will be found.

Distances seem to be at issue here, but as an architect who works with dimensions day in and out I can assure you it's a lot wider than five feet. I don't doubt that one can climb either of the flakes pretty much all the way to the anchors without getting onto the face (although you'll have to reach pretty far to clip the bolts), and I suspect one would not encounter 10a climbing if they were to climb it that way. Indeed, when one lowers to the ground after clipping the anchors you'll have used approximately 60 feet of rope. Is it over-bolted or under-bolted? It seems there are many styles in which we all choose to climb. Some get a thrill out of a gonad-stimulating runout, while others might consider the same route dangerous. And that, my friends, is the beauty of our sport. Climbing is many things to many people, and I've always felt that variety IS the spice of life. If indeed you think this route is over-bolted no one is forcing you to clip all of them. By all means, if you think there are too many then clip every other one! Or every third bolt if it suits your fancy.

By Larry Shaw
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.9

I climbed in the right crack until the final panel and it felt prety easy.

By D's Nutz
From: Frisco, CO
Oct 8, 2006

Some funky moves throughout the route. Watch your head when making your last move.

By mcdbrendan
Sep 24, 2007

Good climb, but the left crack is definitely easier. Hard to reach the bolts from the left side, but cool climb nonetheless.