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My Generation 

5.12d

   

FA: Kevin Gonzales
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 370 page views

Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2002


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Description 

Just right of Ejection Seat, My Generation tackles another steep overhang and slab. Tough bouldery start to a horizontal break (rest) then a very thin section to an obvious hueco. Shake out and complete a final crux reach. Enjoy the tricky 5.11 slab. The easiest of Dan Durland's Triple Crown routes but if you do not have the cruxes dialed, I would recommend a very long draw for the second bolt above the break. This bolt is very difficult to clip otherwise, since it is in the middle of the crux. A fall onto the lower bolt is awkward and potentially dangerous. Otherwise, excellent climbing.


Protection 

9 bolts/ anchors



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By Joe Collins
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.12d

I'm not sure how useful Peter's suggestion of a long draw on the 2nd bolt after the horizontal (4th total) will be... its a pretty tough clip but there really aren't any decent lower holds... the best hold in this section is a crimpy pocket next to the bolt... I'll have to check out that beta when I return. Bring a stick clip... pre-clipping the first two-bolts seems fairly crucial for the boulder problem.

By Jonathan Siegrist
Feb 11, 2008

Long draw on the 4th bolt is the (shhhh!) secret beta for a shorter climber, it makes all the difference. This route is enjoyable and worth an effort- tricky and engaging moves followed by a couple big reaches and fun slab climbing- from super steep to thin slab in 30 seconds. Don't forget to tick Ejector Seat also!