This may be a "chipped route" according to Knapp. I didn't notice it when I climbed it like I did "Fiddler on the Woof" in Clear Creek, but I've never been back to inspect the hold since Knapp claimed it chipped. Nonetheless, this is one of the best routes at Shelf of any rating. The ultimate grab bag of moves; bulges, pockets, roofs, underclings and thin cracks yields an incredibly sustained outing! See photo or book for starting information, but this one's not over till it's over ! Absolute must do !
Hard to imagine you didn't notice the chipped hold at the start on this one. The perfect 4-finger mailslot is most certainly manufactured. There is another questionable two finger right after this, but I didn't need to use it... shorter people might have to. From the 2nd bolt onward, the climbing is sustained, tricky, and long... 3-stars. If you find long-5.11s with one move of V6 more troubling than route modification, you'll love this route.
By BrettPierce From: Colorado Springs Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.11c
The Dark Side
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