Funkdemental 

Kind of contrived, since you can easily get around the crux by climbing on the arete 3 feet to the right of the bulge. Cool position though.

Excellent route. Overhanging jugs, deadpoint crux and pockets really mix things up.

One of the many good routes here. Have your belayer unclip your first draw after you move left around the corner. Don't reveal the secret hold in your beta!

AC, just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route. This is one of the best easy 5.11s at Shelf. If you are tall, you can bypass the use of the "secret" hold and reach the large jug by staying left of the arete at the bulge.

I like the varied nature of this route. It climbs better than it looks and progressively gets more difficult as you climb it.

" just because you went off route to skip doing the hard moves at the crux does not make this route contrived and a one star route."

So 3 or 4 feet to the side of a bolt is off route? I thought that if you are following a bolt line, anyhting within reach is on route... if not, the route falls under the category of "contrived".

I did this route this past weekend and I have to agree with the AC on this one. At the "crux", I climbed the obvious easier ground just to the right of the bolt and traversed back left to the next bolt. I realized after doing this that I had probably gone "off-route", so I downclimbed and did the crux the "right" way. It seemed slightly contrived.

In my opinion, a classic sport route combines good climbing with an inspiring line that doesn't avoid obvious natural features. Maybe other people don't include the last factor in their definition of "classic". There are tons of 2-3 star sport climbs at Shelf, but according to the rating system on this site, one star sounds about right: worth doing, but for myself, probably not worth the effort to repeat.

Secret hold? Shit, I didn't find any secret hold! I think I went the easy way and still thought it was 11a. Man, now I realize why I have trouble with those 5.9s.

This discussion makes me realize how people see and climb routes so differently. Quite interesting.

I think most of the nearby routes pretty much suck, but then they get 2-3 stars and then this one gets one from some folks simply because it offers the opportunity to go gardening (or is that too far right?).

If you went gardening, you were not on Funkdamental. This route starts in an overhang, swings out left, and goes straight up clean rock.

I like the climb, but 11b? What happened to the 10d grade that was in the Rock and Ice supplement guide from years back? I thought that was right on. What's with a lot of the grades that got "bumped" up a notch or two in the Cactus Guide.

10d, straight up the bolts. 2-3 stars. Well worth repeating.

Rob

Very Fun regardless of comments above - this is a great warm up.

Around 12/04/05, the nut holding the hanger on the upper of the two bolts at the bulge was loose. I managed to tighten it by hand, but take care with it. If you're in the area with a wrench, you could generate some good karma by going up and tightening it.

11a seemed about right for this excelent climb. Great exposure up wild holds and pockets. I didn't feel that it was contrived as long as you stayed on the arete proper. 4 stars.

On Sunday, 10-28-07, there was a mean little rattlesnake that had taken up residence below the big rock that you land on when you lower off this climb. Unfortunately, no one saw it until after it had bit a dog. (BTW, after an overnight stay at the vet, the dog is okay)

Fun route, but I don't recall it being contrived or particularly difficult. Maybe it was a height thing? Definitely worth doing if you are over here and an easy tick for the aspiring 11 leader.